There are Colorado ski towns that advertise their quaint mountain lifestyle; then there’s Telluride. This tucked-away mountain town’s humble personality isn’t based on a clever marketing campaign, rather, its authentic feel fits perfectly with the rugged peaks of the surrounding San Juan Mountains. Walking is the preferred mode of transportation, the nearest stoplight is 45 miles away and “formal wear” is considered a fleece jacket with a matching scarf. Sure, getting here takes some time, but the final hour into town is a scenic payoff that offers both a sense of arrival and a relaxing departure from everyday life. Skiers head here for expert terrain (the mountain has one of the highest vertical drops in the country at 3,845 feet), and non-skiers find diversions in the boutique stores that line the streets of a downtown filled with preserved history. After a weekend in Telluride, it’s easy to see why many locals, who originally planned to stay for just one season, are still here after decades.

ON THE MOUNTAIN

Telluride’s mountain terrain caters to skiers looking for a day filled with hidden stashes of snow, knee-bouncing bump runs and drops to send your pulse soaring. The big news this year is the opening of Revelation Bowl, a powder playground with its own dedicated chairlift. The formerly hike-to area is adjacent to the popular Gold Hill and offers advanced and expert skiing in an amazing setting. Skiers willing to work for fresh terrain can also make the trek to Black Iron Bowl and Palmyra Peak (30 minutes to 2 hours by foot) for amazing drops into near-vertical chutes. The best areas to hit some groomed cruisers are the runs located off of Village Express (Lift 4), Polar Queen Express (Lift 5) and Prospect Bowl Express (Lift 12). For an end-of-the-day, top-to-bottom route, head up Lift 9 and soar down the ridgeline of See Forever then cut over to North Chute for one more thrill before the sun sets.

ORDERING OFF THE MENU

From casual settings to unwind in to fine-dining establishments that cater to sophisticated palettes, Telluride’s dining scene delivers a great array of options. If you like a European après-ski scene, try the outdoor patio at the new Hop Garden, a German-styled beer garden that features specialty brews from around the world (located at the base of the Village Express Lift). For those who prefer wine, there’s Alpino Vino, which offers a selection of prominent wines and flavorful cheeses in a comfortable mountaintop setting near Gold Hill. Modern French cuisine is served in a renovated icehouse at La Marmotte, a popular restaurant with an ever-changing menu and 12-person chef’s table. Chef/owner Mark Reggiannini, who honed his skills working for top New York chefs such as Todd English and Jean Georges Vongrichten, combines local organic ingredients using classic French techniques. Sushi in the mountains? Hongas Lotus Petal is a town favorite that moved into a new two-story location in 2007. The Pan-Asian cuisine includes items such as Blackened Tofu and Panang curry, complimented by an extensive menu of exotic teas (it is also known for its mojitos). Downstairs is a private dining room for groups of up to 18 people and a sushi bar, which is supplied with fresh fish flown in from Hawaii.

CHECKING IN FOR THE NIGHT

Arriving on the scene this winter in Mountain Village is lumière , a luxury boutique hotel just a few steps away from the Gondola. It offers everything from fully furnished studios to four-bedroom penthouses, and guest services include staff that valet park vehicles upon arrival and take everything up to your room for a no-hassle check-in. Other amenities include spa treatments, overnight ski tuning and a private bar and lounge that serves breakfast, lunch and après-ski menus. In February, Capella Telluride opens its doors as a resort with classic alpine design built upon a rustic design of native Colorado stone and timbers. Every room offers an amazing view and extras such as iPod docking stations and a bedside touch panel to control the lighting and drapes if you find it hard to leave the comfort of your luxury bed. In downtown Telluride, the 117-year-old New Sheridan Hotel reopened in December after a $7-million renovation. The hotel’s 26 guest rooms and two double-room suites received a makeover overseen by internationally renowned designer Nina Campbell (her past clients include the Queen of Denmark). The Hotel Columbia is located right across from the downtown Gondola entrance and is an intimate setting with rooms that have private hot tubs as well as three-bedroom suites filled with all the essentials for a family vacation. If you’re looking to stay at a private mountain home, try Telluride Platinum Properties, a property management company with a variety of options and 24-hour concierge service. Its ultimate private getaway is the Tempter House, a retreat that sits on top of the ski area and offers world-class amenities such as a steam shower, log fireplaces, feather beds, a fully stocked high-end kitchen and the most spectacular views of the surrounding canyon.

BROWSING THROUGH TOWN

The best thing about strolling along Main Street (officially known as Colorado Blvd.) is that there are no Starbucks or McDonald’s in sight, just locally owned stores with distinctive character. Book browsers will love the small-town, independent vibe of Between the Covers. Since 1974, the bookstore has stocked an eclectic collection of regional literature, detailed local guides and classic titles, as well as having a cappuccino bar tucked away in the back. Picaya is a wander-with-curiosity type of store filled with exotic items from around the world, such as rugs from Turkey, teapots from China, furniture from Brazil and authentic sushi sets from Japan. The setting also has a Zen-like feel with mind/body accessories that ease stress and encourage relaxation. Dakota Home Furnishings is a furniture store that blends rustic character with modern design. In addition to carrying aged-pine bed frames and decorative crystal pieces, the store also works with customers to sketch out, design and build custom pieces like hutches and wine racks. And Cashmere Red imports top-quality wool from Scotland with a selection of scarfs and sweaters designed by the store’s owner.

AFTER DARK ACTIVITIES

Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Sheridan Opera House was built in 1913 to entertain miners with vaudeville acts. Today, it hosts an array of events including film screenings, comedy shows and music concerts, from rock to classical. Stop for a triple-scoop cone at The Sweet Life and sample one of the ice cream flavors named after local residents. And for drinks, people generally shuffle back-and-forth between the no-frills, cash-only Last Dollar Saloon and the New Sheridan Bar, a popular gathering spot for locals and tourists. Make sure to refer to the Last Dollar as “The Buck” and watch out for the cheap shots of tequila at the New Sheridan if you plan to get up early the next day.

OTHER TELLURIDE TIPS AND TIDBITS:

• If you are driving and renting a mountain home, stop in Montrose to stock up on groceries.

• A dog is an essential accessory and many hotels are dog-friendly with special pet amenities.

• There is a debate on whether Telluride got its name from the natural element “tellurium” or from the phrase “to hell you ride,” which came out of the town’s early reputation for being a rowdy place.

• The mining wealth of Telluride attracted the likes of Butch Cassidy and his “Wild Bunch,” who began their brazen bank robbing career at Telluride’s San Miguel National Bank in 1889.

TELLURIDE EXPERIENCES

Most Difficult—Adrenaline-Filled Adventure

Backcountry Heli-Skiing

Colorado’s only heli-skiing outfit, Telluride’s Helitrax runs daylong excursions into untracked terrain for small groups (12-15 people) of advanced skiers and snowboarders. Packages include a gourmet lunch, use of an avalanche beacon and powder skis (or powder snowboard) and are lead by some of the best guides in the world.

Intermediate—Memorable with Mild Activity

Cross-Country Skiing

After years of legal battles and an appearance before the Supreme Court of Colorado, the town of Telluride was authorized to purchase 570 acres in the Valley Floor area right outside of town. Miles of groomed cross-country ski trails wander throughout this preserved open space and equipment rental is available at the Telluride Nordic Center.

Easy—Relax and Enjoy the Scenery

Sleigh Ride Dinners

On Fridays and Saturdays, visitors can arrive in alpine style with sleigh rides under the stars that depart from Mountain Village and deliver guests to the front door of one of the best restaurants in town. Gorrono Ranch (970-728-7474) offers a menu of classic Colorado cuisine served with stunning mountain views.

GETTING THERE

By Air: Great Lakes Airlines flies into Telluride, while United, American, Delta, Continental and US Airways fly into Montrose (about an hour from Telluride). Shuttles from Montrose generally cost $95 round-trip per adult.

Driving Directions: Taking I-70 to Grand Junction, then going south on Rte. 50 to Montrose is generally a more reliable route in the winter (from Montrose, continue south on Rte. 550 to Ridgway then turn right onto Rte. 62, then left on Rte. 145). Another option is south on 285 to Poncha Springs, then head west on Route 50. But during the winter, Monarch Pass often closes due to bad weather conditions and accidents.